You Ain’t Goin’ Nowhere (Oceania I)

In August, I’m moving away from Durban, saying good-bye to my dear friend Bertha and baby Trish, and take the bus to J-Bay (it’s one long-ass bus ride from hell). Early morning wave check at Supertubes—I’d recognize that surfer slouch anywhere.

I’m finally admitting that the time has come for me to leave Africa. After having been robbed in Durbs, and almost injured in a car crash, generally being stressed out all the time, and no one to talk to … I can’t deal with it anymore. I pack my things, spend two last nights in Jozi—dearest, saddest Jozi—and fly to Indonesia.

During a long layover in Singapore, I am oddly fascinated by these airport chairs and their plastic wrapping.

My porch at Mai Malu in Medewi and the awesome tree in front of it, lots of cats everywhere, this one greets me every morning. Medewi in Bali is the best and longest wave I’ve ever surfed, and I do surf my heart out, not having the energy for much besides paddling, eating, and sleeping. Medewi reminds me of Sambava in Madagascar, and I feel at home right away. I have coffees with Rumay from Cape Town and lunches with Maude from Vevey, hang out with local photographers Diong and Dayat, and make a new friend for life, Alie, whom I call “boss,” for good reason.

Then I fly to Sydney and finally see the pool of my dreams in real life—the water is still too cold to swim in, but I photograph the hell out of Icebergs (along with every other tourist in the city)—ironically, I end up liking my iPhone snaps best. My roomate Mathew’s paintings, and the sun hits the trees in Bondi just so—I’m in light heaven. I’m loving being back in the Western (Eastern?) world, able to walk the streets anonymously, with the peculiar magpie call as background. I usually surf Bondi at first light, then get coffee, chat with the barista, walk home to deliver a wave report to Mathew, visit botanical gardens or art exhibitions, inspired and awake.

The Airbnb, the ferry to Manly, plants for sale, a Bondi sidewalk, sweet waves at Bronte. I ride the bus a lot, and enjoy having a good couch and warm home for six weeks. On November 21, I leave Australia and fly to New Zealand.

An old tree along the Waipu Cove cliff walk, my cabin in Mangawhai, drone shots (yay!), and forests. Lots of them. I feel like a mini-explorer with my cameras and tripod. Stormy light and a cozy living room in Raglan, Ngarunui Beach, more forests, and an amazing waterfall. Back in Te Arai on a foggy day.

Time in New Zealand is going by so slowly. I listen to this Dylan song a lot: “I don’t care how many letters they send, morning came and morning went, pick up your money and pack your tent … you ain’t goin’ nowhere.” Sick waves east and west, no one here to slow my gentle groove. I’ll be sticking around for a while for sure.